TierramadreLandscape.com

Many of the playground companies make edging for playgrounds that is safe. Check with them. See Landscape Structures, Gametime, Kompan, Miracle, PlayWorld. Many of thse manufacturers have ADA and safe edges for playgrounds. You can also look at landscape edge materials. They manke a black, plastic landscape edge that might work for you also. Home Depot or Lowes might help you find that or a local nursery might carry it.

2006-09-02 09:11:43 by CANDICE H

Landscape curbing is permanent and customized edging for residential and commercial landscapes. With over 30 stamping patterns and 24 color shades ...

We're changing our red mulch to rock and are trying to figure out what color/type of rock would go best with our home. We're also adding concrete edging and some more flowers (we're in Minnesota). I'm so bad at this and would love some expert opinions. Our house is cream/linen with blue shutters and a "weathered gray" roof, which is actually dark brown looking.

We were considering lava rock pebbles (burnt red), Colorado sunrise stone (creams, whites, and browns), or Mountain Blend stone (mix with slight reds, tans, grays), but we haven't really looked at places with a ton of selection and aren't set on anything.

For flowers, I was thinking reds, yellows, and blues/purples; however, a neighbor had a mx of pinks, whites, yellows, and purples that looked cute and cheery.

Also, the edging can have several colors in it, so I want to tie it in with everything. Any suggestions?
HELP! Any advice is truly appreciated. The BEST answer gets a batch of 7-Layer bars sent to them.
If you want a picture of our home, I can e-mail it to you. I really will send some 7-layer bars to the person who has the BEST answer, meaning suggestions for rock and flower color schemes. I make awesome bars (or I can make cookies or brownies for you instead) This means a lot to us, so thank you!

Hi... I like either the second or third rock mix... not the solid red one. The lava rock sounds a little harsh colored.

I would recommend a multi-season plan. Here's one that I think would look lovely:

Spring: Plant a bed full of all types of daffodils, with patches that bloom very early, early, mid, and late season. Choose some that are bright yellow, some bicolors... look through the bulb selections and go wild. When you plant these, also plant a LOT of blue grape hyacinths. You plant the daffies deep, and then fill with dirt, and poke grape hyacinths in RIGHT in among them. About 3 grape hyacinths per daffodil. When this blooms, it will be like a sea of blue with yellow above. It's a lovely combination. Also, the critters Do Not Eat either of these! And they multiply season after season, so you can put them in spaced a bit this year, next year you'll have more, and the third year it'll really come into its own.

Summer: Put in some perennials. I would recommend some campanula (bluebells) in blue and white. The blue will be great with your house, and the whites are pretty too. Tuck in some pinks (dianthus), both the taller biennial Sweet William and the perennial clove pinks, which are good for the edges. Add a clump of iris (they come in many colors and you can choose some to match your house) for early summer, and a clump or two of daylilies for late (try a yellow patch with the tall Hyperion (scented) in back and the shorter reblooming Stella de Oro in front. Or go for cream and pink.

Fall: Make sure you buy some mums! Small pots of mums are a great value if you're planting for permanent gardens. You can get them in summer and place them in groups, then you have the blooms all autumn, and every year after. You can get great colors... and you can change your color scheme to rusts, deep burgandies, harvest golds and oranges for the season. Add a few Autumn Sedum.

All Season: Fill in your perennial garden with annuals. You can change your colors every year if you like. I love petunias for the color range and the fact that they spread out and fill areas well. I adore the tall pink cosmos, too, for filling in the back of a garden that's newly planted.

All of these work in my zone 5 New Hampshire garden, and should be ok in your area too.

2007-08-08 20:42:38 by happee

I live in Florida and a lot of the nice homes have beautiful landscapes with solid, very thick mats of this ground cover - Jasmine Minima - cut and shaped around the edges of their landscape beds, etc.... what is the best way to acheive a thick growth of this ground cover?

When planting, 6-inch spacing will allow the plants to fill in more quickly, and will likely produce an intact slab more quickly. However, the more densely the bed is planted, the more plants are required, increasing the initial cost. The drawback of ‘Minima’ is that it doesn’t root well along the stems. A biodegradable erosion mat may accelerate slab production. The mat is made of woven straw, and will break down after the jasmine slabs are installed in a landscape.

2007-08-22 05:48:06 by Bob F

My friend and I have landscaped a rather nice home in a nice neighborhood($400,000). We pulled a few weeds, not many, edged a little bit, and layed 144 bags of mulch!!! The mulch added up to 470.14 and i payed for that so how much do you think he should pay us, altogether, including mulch, both of our labor and gas for hauling the mulch, just one check...HOW MUCH???

Don't base what you charge upon whether your customer looks like he has a lot of money, but base it upon your calculations.

You need to know how many hours you worked. As an example, if both of you worked five hours, then that would mean that you need to charge for ten man hours. Now you need to determine how much your labor is worth an hour, and that can be almost anything, but since you probably don't do this work professionally every day, then don't charge as much as professionals do. If you figure $20 per hour, then you would figure in $200 in labor ($20 x 10 hours). Now add to that your mulch of $470.14, plus maybe 20% more for having to pick up the mulch, and you come up with a total around $765.

Of course change these figures to how many hours you really did work, and also what you think your hourly labor is worth.

2008-04-23 18:52:34 by V

We have central landscaping area in front of our home along our home's walkway that these 6 Spiraea shrubs are located at leading to our front door. In this landscaped area we have these shrubs, 3 hosta's, 1 small crabapple tree and 6 green bushes. The Spiraea's are on the left outer edge of the walkway, then we have a crabapple tree in the middle along with 3 hosts plants around the tree. On the right side towards our home and garage we have 6 green bushes that were planted by the previous owner as well.

The previous home owner who lived here planted them 5 yrs ago and we have moved here 2 yrs ago. We want to remove all of these Spiraea shrubs, but we are afraid whatever we plant there will not grow also. Since we have 2 Spireaa's that look good and 4 that do not, should we remove all of them or keep the 2 and replace the others with new Spiraea's? The last 2 yrs we tried to water them, put fertilizer spikes and also pruned them every year, but they didn't grow 1 inch.
i live in Milwaukee, WI

Sounds like variations in the soil depth. Had you been the one who planted them you may have noticed. If it was me I would dig test holes near a healthy one and one of the slow growers to see. If the soil looks different you can dig deep "moats" around the slow trees and refill with better soil. Another word of caution. When trees aren't growing well, adding fertilizer to them may actually compound the problem. Other things to consider are the amount of sun and water they receive. You may think you are giving them the same amount but again various soils hold various amounts of water. RScott

2007-09-15 06:56:14 by Dinosaur